Learn how fade resistance defines your brake performance under pressure. We explore fade points, gas film build-up, and why performance pads maintain a higher friction coefficient even at extreme temperatures.
Does a sports pad really wear out faster than an OEM equivalent? We break down how operating temperatures dictate pad longevity and why sports pads can actually outlast stock pads in high-stress environments like winding roads and track days.
Never get caught out by worn-out brakes. We explain the difference between mechanical "squealers" and advanced electric sensors, including the reusable plug-in types found on BMW and Mercedes-Benz versus embedded Audi and VW sensors.
Discover how the coefficient of friction (µ) defines your braking performance. From initial bite to temperature stability, learn the technical factors that separate standard street pads from high-performance racing compounds.
The Official Guide to Bedding In Your DIXCEL Brakes
Installing a set of premium DIXCEL brake pads and rotors is the first step to unlocking serious stopping power. However, the most critical part of the upgrade happens after the spanners are put away.
Properly bedding in your brakes (sometimes referred to in factory manuals as "marking" or "groove work") is essential. The goal isn't just to scuff up the surface; it is to gradually transfer a microscopic, even layer of pad friction material directly onto the rotor face.
If this transfer layer is applied too aggressively or unevenly, you will experience steering wheel judder, warped rotors, and a massive drop in braking performance. Whether you are driving your WRX STI on the street or attacking the circuit in a Golf R Mk7, here is the official factory procedure for bedding in your new DIXCEL components.
Bedding In for Street Use
For daily driving and spirited street use, the bedding process is entirely about patience and smooth driving.
Allow between 300 km to 1,000 km of normal public road driving for the pads and rotors to fully mate.
Avoid sudden, aggressive braking and abrupt steering during this period.
Refrain from riding the brakes or doing heavy repeated stops that drastically spike the rotor temperature, as this can easily warp fresh iron.
Drive normally, brake smoothly, and the components will bed themselves in perfectly.
Bedding In for Circuit Use
Taking brand new, stone-cold rotors out on a track and instantly hitting them with 100% braking force is a guaranteed way to crack or warp them. The sudden thermal shock ruins the structural integrity of the disc. Follow this staged process to properly heat-cycle the brakes on the track:
The 50% Phase: Drive for the first 5 minutes using only 50% of your maximum braking force. Return to the pits.
First Cooldown: Allow the vehicle to sit and cool for a minimum of 5 minutes.
The 80% Phase: Head back out for a 10-minute session, increasing your braking effort to 70–80%. Return to the pits.
Second Cooldown: Allow the brakes to cool for another 10 minutes.
The 100% Phase: Head out for your final session, gradually ramping your braking force from 80% up to full 100% race pace.
Critical Cooldown: Always complete a proper cool-down lap after this process to prevent the pad material from cooking into the hot rotor and creating uneven "hot spots."
Bedding In Two-Piece Rotors
Two-piece rotors require a highly specific bedding procedure to prevent distortion and judder. If you are preparing a track car with a two-piece DIXCEL setup, follow this exact routine:
Find a safe, controlled environment and accelerate to 120 km/h.
Apply moderately strong braking to bring the car down to 80 km/h.
Repeat this 120 km/h to 80 km/h deceleration roughly 40 times in succession.
You may feel some judder initially, but this will smooth out as the transfer layer builds.
Perform a long cooling run without touching the brakes to bring the rotor core temperature below 100°C.
Pro-Tip for R35 GT-R Owners: When performing the two-piece rotor bedding procedure, use your in-car multi-function display. Switch to the Braking G-Force screen and aim to hit a consistent 0.5G to 0.6G during your 120 km/h to 80 km/h deceleration stops.
Visual Inspection: How to Know It Worked
Once the brakes are cooled, inspect the rotor face and the pad edges. You should see an even contact patch across the entire swept area of the rotor with no dark blue heat spots or clumpy, uneven pad deposits. The edge of the pad friction material should look slightly burned white to a thickness of about 1 mm.
A Note on Used Rotors
If you are installing new DIXCEL pads onto a set of used rotors, the old friction material from the previous pads is still baked into the iron. If you do not have the rotors machined or polished to strip this old layer off, the new pads will take significantly longer to bed in, and you run a very high risk of experiencing severe judder as the two different compounds fight each other. Always start with a fresh surface for maximum performance.
